Rotonde de Cartier Mystery Replica Watch Versus The Levitas
Cartier's Rotonde Mystery watch is rather lovely and comes in 18k white or rose gold for 2013. I don't think a steel model will ever be available. The Rotonde-style case in this instance is 42mm wide with a ton of distinct Cartier styling. You get that typical deeply cut and engraved dial with blackened sections and Roman numerals for much of the dial. Then there is the "hole" where you see the hands. Just in case you aren't familiar with these systems, the movement moves two transparent sapphire crystals that have the hands mounted on them. It creates the illusion that the hands are floating in space. The effect is interesting, but as many people commented when I first put an image of this on Instagram and Facebook while at the show, it wasn't super sexy to see your arm hair through the watch.
Inside of the Cartier Rotonde Mystery replica watch is an in-house made caliber 9981 MC manually wound movement that is made up of 158 parts and operates at 21,800 bph. It has a power reserve of 48 hours, and is just 4.61mm thick. The entire Cartier watch is just 11.6mm thick. Overall relatively slim for what it is a nice movement. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement in its entirety. The challenge for a movement such as this is moving the relatively heavy discs which can effect accuracy tremendously.
Things are a bit different in the Levitas watch with Konstantin Chaykin's also in-house made caliber KMR 02-0 manually wound movement. And by a "bit different" I really mean just a bit. Only watch movement nerds will have a lot to say on this. Functionally the two movements are quite closely related. You'll notice that the Levitas watch has a significantly larger opening for the "mystery" dial. This means that the movement has much less space - a considerable challenge over the Cartier 9981 MC. The KMR 02-0 is a bit thicker at 5.5mm thick but overall takes up less space. It operates at a slower 18,000 bph, and has a shorter power reserve of 33 hours. Konstantin Chaykin also readily admits that the system is not incredibly accurate given the weighty sapphire discs and rates the movement as accurate to about 30-45 seconds a day. Unless told otherwise, I would guess that Cartier's movement isn't terribly off from this number given the same issues. Having said that, I think that Cartier's watch is probably a bit more accurate given the smaller discs. Last, it is worth noting that there are two versions of the Konstantin Chaykin mystery movement as there are two watch sizes. The larger of which contains an additional complication - a moon phase indicator.
As you can see there isn't too much terribly different about these movements. The Konstantin Chaykin offers a larger mystery dial and a moon phase indicator on the men's versions, while the Cartier watch offers a longer power reserve and arguably more accuracy - as well as the desirable Cartier name. Not sure if one should wear this timepiece assuming it will be accurate beyond showing everyone exactly how much of a "watch tan" you have. Both watches have precious metal case options, though the Konstantin Chaykin Levitas offers a steel model as well.
There is a 40mm wide version of the Levitas available as a women's piece. It also comes in an "Art" range that has interesting and more high-end dials. Some of the Levitas Art models also come with diamond covered cases (in case you wanted to know). When it comes down to it, 2013 is certainly a good year for mystery watches. If there is a market for these timepieces then we will find out soon. I think the watches are cool and will do reasonably well. Of course, there are some practical considerations to wearing these - namely that you will see part of your wrist through the watch each time you or your friends look at the dial. It was recommended to me that you could just selectively shave a round area on your wrist under the dial. So, by all means go for it.
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